Working in the Office
It's been four weeks back in the office since returning from Brazil and I am absolutely itching to get out and travel again; too many hours in front of the computer. I finished putting together my presentation on my "Amazing Year of Travel" and now hope to be taking that to the road and helping Connecticut Audubon promote its programs. If you know of any group that would like a speaker, please be in touch with me or pass my contact info on.

Also, I've been working on the final touches for our annual January trip to Arkansas and the land of the Ivory-billed Woodpecker. Don't bother asking if I have seen one! I couldn't tell you if I had, as that would be the ticket to ending any sort of credibility I might have as a bird guide. There are far too many non-believers out there to risk one's reputation (no matter how meager it may be). If I get a photograph of one...then that is a different story and I will see you on the lecture circuit! This year, our group will be visiting with Gene Sparling, the kayaker who had the 2004 Ivorybill sighting that stirred the whole mystery up into a swirling wave. I've met him in the past, talked with him at length about his sighting, and enjoyed his kind spirit. I look forward to seeing him again. This past June, I met Tim Gallager, author of The Grail Bird, at his Cornell office. I am certain that his own Ivorybill sighting has changed his life to a point where it will never be quite the same. I have now talked with eight different people who have seen the Ivorybill. Seeing it... is it a curse or great luck? Not sure.

Working on a Presentation
I've spent most of the day getting a start on a PowerPoint presentation featuring images of my last 12 months of travel. I will keep you posted as to any engagements that I have coming up so you can come out and see where I have been and where I want to take you!

Selden Island "Daytrippers" Video on Fox61
A couple of weeks back, I did a video piece with Sarah Cody from Fox61 about Selden Island, the largest island in Connecticut waters and the largest island in the 410 miles of the Connecticut River. Hope you enjoy the video and can join me on the island sometime soon.

Look along the right column under "My TV News Clips" and click on "Selden Island."

An Amazing Year of EcoTravel
One year ago today, I started an amazing year of travel through the Americas. Most of those experiences are posted here in some detail and I am sure it will be a while before I can match the great experiences and the wonderful people I met. I have been lucky to start some new friendships and to build on some I had already. I truly am very lucky.

Last November, we were off to Churchill, Manitoba to see the annual migration of the largest land carnivore, the Polar Bear; an animal that is so recognizable, uniquely powerful and majestic.

In January, a small group of adventurers once again headed to the swamps of central Arkansas to enjoy the vast cypress/tupelo habitat and the land of the Ivory-billed Woodpecker. We were pleased to meet Gene Sparling, whose sighting in 2004 started the recent hunt for the "Grail Bird."

March gave me the opportunity to once again work on the bird study program based in Cuba, home to the world's smallest bird, the Bee Hummingbird. This program blends culture, nature, and political histories as no other tour can. I was also able to stop on my way and visit Tulum and Chichen Itza on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula; truly an emotional experience of human suffering.

In April, I made my first tour of the Galapagos Islands and reveled in the so familiar Flightless Cormorant, Giant Tortoise, and Darwin's Finches. It was the anniversary of Darwin's 200th birthday; a special place (put this on your "Bucket List").

June presented a unique experience with travel by private aircraft across the northern tier of the United States visiting many states and great sites like Mount Rushmore, potholes and prairies, Kirtland's Warbler, and more. I tell you...a private plane...is the way to go!

Early October brought me back to Block Island, Rhode Island for perhaps my 16th or 17th year of enjoying the fall migration on this lovely offshore migrant trap. The images of the giant yellow heads of Seaside Goldenrod are forever in my mind.

And to top it off...I found Paradise in the the Pantanal of Brazil, without a doubt my favorite place to enjoy the works of Mother Nature with outstanding mammals, birds, and scenery. The sunsets overlooking the Pantanal from the clifftops of Chapata were equalled only by the fine company and hour-long visit with a lounging Jaguar.

What a year, and thank you to all the travelers for making it possible. We will all have such great memories for years to come.

Someday I will have to get a real job!

AG

Still Living Brazil

Since returning from the Pantanal, I have been pouring through the 1,700 or so images I brought home, rechecking the bird and animal tally sheet, posting to Connecticut Audubon's website and my own blog, and having a hard time shaking daydreaming about Brazil. The scenery is outstanding, sunsets some of the best, and the food inspiring, making the whole adventure unavoidably captivating. When on our way home, three of us were talking about our favorite four course meal and where we would like to eat it. We all agreed that the Pantanal was the place. It was a wonderful escape and experience and one that I hope to recreate not only for myself in the future, but for our travelers too.

Still in the Afterglow
It has been a week since my return and the afterglow and enthusiasm for this destination has not wained. What an outstanding collection of Mother Nature's flora and fauna, with incredible mammals, reptiles, scenery, and birds buried in an unforgettable landscape of ponds, backwaters, and rivers.

We really hit the cream of South America's "Big Five" with good luck at a Harpy Eagle nest site. This birds feet and talons are impressively massive, significantly dwarfing our Bald Eagle, Golden Eagle, and Black Bear. You have got to see it to believe it! A monkey eater, this powerful predator of the sky is not to me missed when seeking out the planet's most notable creatures. All should have the chance to enjoy a visit with this spine tingling avian wonder.

Back From Brazil
Wow! What a great trip! Minus the nine hour flight it was spectacular. This was my second time in the Pantanal; my first, the same time of year, five years ago. We really lucked out on some great target birds and animals coming home with about 250 bird species for the eight days in the country, two cats, Tapir, Crab-eating Fox, and more.

We arrived in the remote city of Cuiaba around noon on the first day and headed southwest into the Pantanal proper, stopping for our first looks at the many wading bird species one can expect to see almost every day of the trip. Being the "World's Largest Freshwater Wetland" you can expect to see some good volume. We timed our trip so that we are at the end of the dry season when the many animals are condensed into the dwindling small ponds.

We traveled to the small outpost of Porto Jofre, located at the end of the Transpantanal Highway, a 100 kilometer dirt road with over 130 wood bridges. Without a doubt, the highlight of the trip was our day along the Cuaiba River and the sighting of a Jaguar, not just any Jaguar, but likely the largest cat in the area. This was a big male that had been seen along the river for about six years and was now lounging for us to see. Our small boat drifted to about 25 feet as we set an anchor to hold us in position in the strong current. All travelers were a bit nervous as the large cat seemed to be evaluating our distance and perhaps his opportunity to make a jump for the juicy tourist.

We spent an hour with the impressive cat and took many photos. All were pleased!

June 26 - Heading Home

Early departure for Necedah NWR and a rapid tour of the facility. We surely could have spent more time here but in the short time we were able to revel in some fine looks at some special birds that included Whooping Cranes, Vesper Sparrow, and Golden-winged Warbler.

A call came from the pilots encouraging us to arrive early to get us in the window of weather that would allow us to get home that day. We gave our fond farewells to Roberta with great thanks for all that she did for our trip, promising to return before too long.

Off we were again in our "air yacht" with a stop, sidewinding through the clouds, in Ithaca, NY for fuel. We were a bit sceptical as to if we would make it all the way home but after a two hour stay, John and Doug identified a window between two lines of thunder storms that would let us home.

We cracked a couple of bottles of champagne, took some pictures of the group with the plane, and off we slipped between the storms and all the way home; many hugs and promises to keep in touch after we landed.

It truly was a trip of a lifetime! It would be hard to reproduce this experience unless we were able to get everyone back to try another adventure to equally as unique destinations. I hope we can!

June 25 - Horicon Marsh

Early departure for Horicon Marsh and a rendezvous with Roberta Laffey, long-time friend and a great help with our Wisconsin leg details. We enjoyed a full day with Jeff Bahls, a good local guide who was able to put us onto much waterfowl and a great tour of the vast Horicon marsh system.

We enjoyed a fine introductory program offered by the visitor's center and ate our lunch in the middle of the marsh wit many calling Sora and Virginia Rail. i still owe a few people a good look at a Sora (not for lack of trying).

We left Jeff's company in the mid-afternoon so as to enjoy the comforts of our Band B. Four of us wandered down the hill to Devil's Lake State Park and in about an hour of birding were able to some quality birds including Acadian Flycatcher, Hooded Warbler, and Yellow-billed Cuckoo.

We headed up to "The Dells" for a great Farewell Dinner at "The Wilderness" with Roberta, John and Doug and enjoyed much talk about what a great trip it had been so far. Everyone got a chance to talk about their favorite location and bird. For me, the prairie with the Spargus's Pipit flying and displaying above our heads was truly special. Everyone had equally unique moments.

June 24 - Cranes
Back up to Grand Rapids racing to get out before some weather came in. Heading for Baraboo, WI we experienced our first weather delay of only about an hour while we waited for a few clouds to pass at our fueling stop.

We arrived in Baraboo with no incidents and hustled off for a visit to the International Crane Foundation to hear about their important work in helping to preserve this very unique family of birds. Their collection of birds is wonderful, one Grey-crowned Crane particularly stunning in its mating dance preformed with John (the pilot) the focus of its attentions.

Not far was our wonderful B and B for the next two nights. The inn was grandly luxurious and all for our group only. The inn keepers were attentive to our needs and gracious hosts at an evening wine tasting which included some local wines which were surprisingly good. We ventured into the old part of Baraboo for a great dinner at Baraboo's best cafe.

June 23 - Black Hills and Sage Brush

We met early with our guide for the day, Dwayne Weber, a biologist for the federal government at wind Cave which boarders the larger Custer State Park. We took breakfast and lunch with us to minimise the delays and as my good buddy Jay Hand and I say..."MTC"..."Maximise The Coverage."

We walked a trail through the Ponderosa Pine with White-winged Crossbill, Western Tanager, and a new bird for me, Pinyon Jay. The two jays were first heard calling from the ridge above, flew over our heads, and landed in the distant tree line. Not the best look but fun to hear them calling!

We stopped occasionally to look at the wildlife which included American Bison and many pronghorn at close range. We stopped at the corral used for the bison round-up in the fall to search for Say's Phoebe. Great looks at three phoebes fighting for territory.

We visited Wind Cave to witness the phenomenon of the barometric pressure difference that creates a wind as the cave "breaths." We headed west toward Wyoming and the sage lands in search of the Sage Thrasher and Brewer's Sparrow, the later of which preformed admirably.

Back into the hills, we passed by some great rock formations, delighted by "The Needle" and "Cathedral Rocks." Not to be missed!

Dwayne was a great guide and I am sure we all hope our paths will cross again. Our group had a nice dinner outside at the main lodge; great hotel, food, service, and setting under the stars!

June 22 - Badlands, Rushmore, and Crazy Horse
Our flight to south Dakota and Rapid City was another opportunity for some great sight seeing. The Black Hills came into sight, their tightly spaced Ponderosa Pines giving them the "black" appearance. The change from the prairie land of the north to these unique hills (the highest at 7,242 feet) was interesting as was the Badlands to the east, stunning in their starkness, unusual shapes, multi-colored layers, and impressive scale.

We stopped for lunch after a short stop at the park headquarters; a very nice lunch just nest door. We drove the loop road and enjoyed many pull-offs for scenery and vistas, as well as prairie dogs and our first Pronghorn Antelope.

We made a run over to Mount Rushmore which was truly inspirational. The museum, carvings, and the whole memorial is really well done and tasteful. We all really enjoyed it. Not far from here is the Crazy Horse Memorial, still, and perhaps for many more years, under construction. Just the face is complete; the arm and area where the horse's head will be are just roughed-out. It too is an amazing sight and scale that is hard to fathom. The whole of Mount Rushmore fits on the head of Crazy Horse! It will be a wonder of mankind when complete, as it will be the world's largest sculpture in three dimensions.

We headed to our hotel (Creekside Lodge) in Custer. This is the newest addition to the historical state game lodge and wonderfully luxurious with fine food and wines. We must come back!

June 21 - Prairies and Pot Holes
Ron Martin met us at 5AM at our B and B to guide us through the prairies east of Minot. His expertise in putting us on the birds and in the proper habitat was well worth the guide fees.

Ron, in his self effacing way, provided us with stunning looks at Baird's Sparrow (North Dakota's #1 Star Bird), displaying Sprague's Pipit and its tireless hour long flights, impressive sparrow selection, and a visit to the nest of a Ferruginous Hawk. Chestnut-collared Longspur was truly a highlight for us all as well as hearing numerous Yellow Rail clicking in defence of their territories.

The morning included many other great birds before we headed back into town to enjoy our lunch on the porch of the B and B. Afterwards, we headed south to Garrison Dam in search of some new species. Large lakes and potholes yielded Horned Grebe on a nest, a look at a second year California Gull, close views of American White Pelican, Western Grebe at a distance, and many Common Tern.

We arrived back at Dakota Rose to enjoy some time on the porch with Ron and then a fine dinner at Dakota Rose. Ron made the day one of the best!